No condos, no
roads, lots of wild life!
“Fort
Macon occupies the eastern
extremity
of Borden or Bogue Island, commanding Beaufort
Harbor, one of the southern
outlets of
Pamlico Sound.
The town of Beaufort
lies about two miles off, a little east of north, across the harbor. Morehead
City, at the same distance
westwardly,
is the terminus of the Atlantic and North Carolina railroad.
Fort
Johnston, some 80
miles distant, is the
nearest military post.
“The
island is a mere sand-bar,
lying nearly due east and west, separated from the mainland by a
narrow,
shallow sound (Bogue Sound). It is 26
miles long, with an average width of less than a mile.
The sea front is a gently undulating beach,
flanked by extensive sand-hills, which slope gradually to a low, flat
marsh on
the sound side, a narrow strip of comparatively fertile soil
intervening. The sand-hills are constantly
shifting, and
the marsh is mostly overflowed at high tide.
Part of the island is wooded, but the eastern extremity is
treeless for
several miles. The neighboring island of Shackleford has the same general
character; the adjoining mainland is low, and consists chiefly of sandy
tracts,
pine-barrens, and swamps. Beaufort Harbor is shallow, and
obstructed by
numerous extensive shoals; the channel, navigable for vessels of
ordinary
tonnage, is narrow and tortuous; it sweeps around the point of the
island close
to the fort. The deepest soundings, for
some miles, do not exceed eight fathoms; the average in the main
channel is
only about half as much; the bottom is mostly sandy, often shelly,
occasionally
clayey and muddy in the shallowest places. Vessels reach the wharf at
the
railroad terminus, but only those of lightest draught go to Beaufort. The bottom, as well as the coast line, is
subject to constant change, and hydrographic surveys can be relied
upon, in
detail, for only comparatively short periods.
“This
locality is in the midst of
the auriferous region which extends from Long Island to North Florida. There
are no rocks
whatever in the vicinity, except those that have been brought hither. The beach consists of pure sand mixed with
shelly detritus.
<>
“It
is evident, from
the foregoing considerations, that the foundations of the fort are to
be looked upon with some
suspicion, and that in engineering operations the unstable nature of
the ground
should be held in view. A useful lesson
may be learned from the fact that the site of Fort
Hamilton [Hampton] is now indicated by a line
of
breakers, nearly a mile off. The present
fort has been in imminent danger from the encroachment of the sea, the
water
having reached to the base of the glacis.
It was preserved by a system of stone jetties, by means of which
the
beach was carried some 200 yards or more away from the fort. Although they have thus far answered their
design, the fort must still be regarded as in an exposed and precarious
condition. The channel, as already
stated, sweeps rapidly close in shore around the point of the island,
with
constant erosive action. The trend of
the land lays it open to the prevailing and the most violent winds. The open sea beats directly upon the beach,
and the sand-hills are always shifting.
As long as the fort is not defended by extensive and permanent
masonry,
care should be taken to disturb the surface as little as possible,
since every
formed or forming sand-hill is something of a natural protection. The more grass and weeds are allowed to grow
about the fort the better, as they help to bind down the sand. Any gully that might be formed by the rain,
or other cause, in the glacis, would enlarge indefinitely, and be
difficult to
remedy………. >
“The
reservation comprises about
a mile of the end of the island; the limits are at present indicated by
a few
stakes standing here and there in the mud of the marsh, of which the
whole
consists, with the exception of the sandy sea-front above mentioned……….
“The
insects of the locality that
have any special relations with man are chiefly those affecting him
injuriously. Various species of
wood-ticks abound; while indoors the bedbugs
and a species of roach are only
too common. Crab louse is the characteristic
representative of the parasites. The
garrison, probably, is never free from
its infestation. The prevalence of
southwest winds free us in part from
the mosquitoes, but these and a sand midge are often annoying pests in
summer. The waters give employment and
support to a large part of the population and furnish important
additions to
the army ration. A dozen or more of
small or medium-sized fish may always be taken at the wharf, and
fishing for
these is the chief amusement of the
troops. Of larger fish the “sheepshead,”
two species of drum, and the sea trout, are abundant in season and
easily
secured. Blue fish are abundant late in
summer, and trolling for them furnishes the most agreeable and
healthful
exercise that is had here. The most
important fishing, however, in the commercial point of view, is
undoubtedly
that of the mullet, vast shoals of which make their appearance late in
the
fall. They are only taken in the
seine. Of useless or hurtful fish may be
mentioned the various species of rays, or stingers, as they are called. The wound from the spine of the tail is
tedious,
painful and even dangerous. Sharks of
different species, including the hammerhead, are sufficiently large and
numerous to require the exercise of some caution in bathing. Like the rest of the Carolina coasts this locality is
noted as a
habitat of the somewhat celebrated devil fish, which must not, however,
be
confounded with any of the smaller species of rays that commonly
receive the
same name. Reptiles furnish only two
species of economic consequence. These
are the loggerhead turtle and the terrapin,
both of which are excellent for the table. Of
venomous reptiles I have noticed but
two—the rattlesnake and copperhead: both
are common in swampy wooded places. The
island itself seems singularly destitute of frogs; though several occur
in the mainland. I have noticed four
species of harmless
snakes and three of harmless lizards about the fort.
One of the latter, the glass snake, is the
most abundant and characteristic reptile of the island.
The alligator is a frequent inhabitant of the
swamps in the vicinity. Out of over 200
species of birds that I record from the locality, several species are
of
special economic importance. With the
exception of the quail, which is abundant on the mainland, though
shunning the
barren island, these belong, as was to have been anticipated, to the
waders and
swimmers. The first named furnish
chiefly in spring and fall during the migration
curlew, plover, various kinds of snipe, and sand birds and rail. All these are abundant, and may be procured
with little trouble. In November, and
during the winter, water fowl throng the harbor. They
are represented by two or three kinds of
geese and a dozen or more of ducks, as mallard, teak, widgeon,
red-heads, and
raft ducks; but the most abundant water fowl, the fishing duck, is
hardly
eatable. The various pelagic birds that
enter the harbor are rather interesting in their scientific aspects
than
important from our present standpoint.
In a sanitary point of view there are three species of decided
consequence: the turkey buzzard, fish
crow, and herring gull, which effectually remove the garbage that is carried out of the fort.
“The
list of indigenous mammals
is comparatively small. Deer occur in
numbers in the vicinity, and venison is sometimes as cheap as beef. They are said to reside on the wooded portion
of the island itself as well as on the mainland. A
hare is the most abundant and
characteristic mammal of the island. The
opossum is common. Among fur-bearing
animals may be mentioned the gray fox, mink, otter, and raccoon. Our noxious species area confined to the rat
and mouse, naturalized species that have permanent foothold about the
fort………..
“There
are no springs upon the
island, and the pools, etc., are all more or less subject to the tides;
all the
water is brackish and most of it somewhat hard.
It may be procured anywhere by sinking a barrel or two. I do not, however, indorse the current
opinion that it is sea water filtered through the sand....”
Ranger Randy Newman
found
these excerpts from :”A Report on Barracks and
Hospitals With Descriptions of Military Posts” written in 1870 by Dr.
Elliott
Coues(we think it is pronounced “cows”).
In them he describes the natural environment as he saw it in
1870